Monday 11 August 1997 La Oroya to Lima

Today we returned to Lima but this time we had sunny sky all the way until we reached the mist and smog of Lima. We had breakfast at the Miners Dining Room and there was some time to absorb the atmosphere of Oroya station. It was like a time warp back to North America in the 1940s with outside framed wooden box cars, old brake equipment, ancient trucks, lighted switch stands and semaphore signals.

The climb to Galera Summit was very impressive in the sun. I rode to the summit in the engine. It was the same engineer as yesterday, and, as I had already given him an Operation Lifesaver pin and a Transport Canada pen, I received a warm welcome. We passed a road crossing with 13 shrines - must be a dangerous crossing! I mentioned to the engineer that many of us were having problems with the altitude. He laughed and said "Tango dos corazones” (I have two hearts). A freight train was following us and we stopped occasionally to get a glimpse of it. We were on the upper switchback as it entered the lower one. There was also a photo stop at a wide horseshoe curve from which we could see for miles past the following train as well as a track car (carrito moto) which was also following.

There was fresh snow on the ground at Galera Summit where there was a little confusion as to whether the following train would run ahead of us to allow us time to play on the descent to Lima. In the event we left first but the freight train did not catch us up. We took our time to enjoy the switchbacks, bridges and loops and there were many stops for photos. I was able to pinpoint the place on my father's cigarette card where the train leaves a tunnel, runs on a bridge over a sheer drop and immediately enters another tunnel (at km130). At one point we watched an avalanche on the other side of the valley - the rocks must have tumbled about a thousand feet. There was an emergency stop to avoid a rock slide which had covered the track. It didn't take long to clear but the crew were concerned that some more would come down if we didn't hurry up and get past.

We stopped at the Puente Carrion and a short distance beyond to see the remains of locomotive 612 which went over the side at this point. The company had stripped it but the large items will probably remain there. There were a couple of new crosses by the track here.

From San Bartolome the engineer had the opportunity to show what his locomotive would do as this section is relatively straight. The dynamic brakes really held as we ran fast downhill into the coastal mist. There was a change of locomotive at Choisica and the final two hours were completed in darkness. This part was boring and a little unpleasant because the kids throw rocks at the trains. With the windows closed it becomes hot and oppressive.

There was a triumphant entry into the station at Lima where they had found a way of getting the buses in through a back entrance so security was happy. There was quite a quick transfer to the hotel and the group of us went out to a good restaurant. I had Chinchulinas (intestines) and lamb.